NYC hidden dining gems: Pavé French bakery is an oasis in Times Square

While in the cruxes of Times Square, I heard my stomach rumbling. I assumed I’d only ever find Margaritavilles, Applebees, and Dave and Busters for food and drink options, but located just off of Sixth Ave. at 46th St is a tiny mint blue bakery dedicated to all things French: Pavé.

I must admit that at one time in my life, I didn’t really understand the hype with French food. I had only experienced that high-end, white tablecloth type of experience that feels unapproachable. My attitude changed with a trip to Lyon last summer when I got a quick Camembert and butter sandwich on a baguette to take with me on the train. I bit into the decadent yet simple sandwich and suddenly realized why French food had never clicked with me. I hadn’t experienced it in its simplest form: the literal perfection of French breadmaking, the decadence of French butter, and a good ol’ stinky soft-rind French cheese.

Since that trip to Lyon, I have been on a hunt to find the best humble French dishes in New York City, and luckily, I finally found Pavé.

Even as the author of this column, I can admit that the term “hidden gems” has become overused, but Pavé is the very definition of a hidden gem. It’s in an area where it can feel impossible to find a good spot, but simply swinging the doors open will lead you to a breath of fresh air, mainly because that air is filled with the scents of freshly baked bread.

I opted for the everything baguette, the jambon beurre (or ham and butter) sandwich, and the passionfruit brioche. I got my arrangement of bread and pastries with a double espresso, though if you come later in the day you should know wine is also available. When I ordered the everything baguette, I was asked, “With butter or without?” which seemed like a pointless question at a French bakery; the answer is obviously “with.”

Speaking of butter, the jambon beurre is a classic French sandwich and the epitome of simple French cuisine. The sliced baguette is slathered thick with room temperature butter and stuffed with perfectly folded, thinly sliced ham. At Pavé, there are a few specks of grainy mustard, adding a slight zing and pop to the otherwise fatty and velvety sandwich. The jambon beurre not only reminded me of the sandwich from just last year that made me truly appreciate French cuisine, but it’s arguably the best deal in the area at only $7.50.

The everything baguette is triangular shaped, which I was not expecting but pleasantly surprised to see. When I was asked if I wanted butter, I assumed it would be room temp or even cold butter. Instead, when I opened up the serrated baguette, I was met with mounds of oozing warm melted butter. Who on earth needs croissants, or even bagels for that matter, when you could eat the everything baguette from Pavé instead? It’s crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and with only a kiss of everything bagel seasoning, I’d argue that it’s a perfect piece of bread.

The passionfruit brioche was the only thing from Pavé that didn’t blow my mind. I ordered passion fruit hoping for a tart and tangy taste, but instead, was met with a custard that leaned too far on the sweet side. However, even with the marks missed from the passionfruit brioche, I’d go out of my way for another bite of their savory baguettes.

Despite the associations with French food always being pretentious and decadent, Pavé is proof that sometimes the art of French food lies in its simplicity.

• Address: 20 W 46th St, New York, NY 10036
• Phone: (646) 454-1387
• Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 7 a.m.-7 p.m.; Monday and Friday 7 a.m.-4 p.m.; Closed Saturday and Sunday
• Prices: Breads $2.25-$5; Sandwiches $7.50-$15; Focaccia $5.50-$6.25; Salads $11-$13; Pastries & Viennoiserie $2.50-$34; Afternoon menu $11-$25
• Takeout and delivery available. No reservations.

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Originally Published: July 17, 2024 at 1:00 p.m.